Same as Orren flat-out REFUSED to rechamber mine from.
There was a period of time mebbe a five-year run, where four out of five if not ALL five of the top bench rest slots listed "Bellows action" and Orren himself often as not behind the trigger of one of them.Ĭan't get that far with the chambering you have, and it would be a travesty to change it. his extreme magnifications - or even the 12-power - could well be overkill for no more reach than what your Mauser has.įellow who did my Savage, Balvar-8 mountup and initial zero-in summer of '61, a really interesting old guy with a really NEAT shop in Wilcox, PA, was firing Mauser-derived but hand-built actions in a whole different venue for HIS amusement.220-K Swift, IIRC. Mum's memories of "Handsome Johnny" Unertl, a year or so ahead of her, same HS, and chased after by all the girls, had little to do with his going into the 'scope bizness! But. I was hoping to put a scope with at least 12 power, actually wanted another big Vertex 24X but now I know it would cause problems (Using just the rear sight base). I'll ask my GS about scopes for the short cut mount first and go from there, he is awesomely helpful and generous with his time, Richard Coon's Guns of Tillamook Oregon. It sounds like the choice is either the short cut method of using the rear sight base, which appears to limit the scope to a long eye relief type, or going whole hog and altering many things. I broke many taps before carefully grinding just shy of 1/2 of the threads off the tops of the peaks of a tap,turning it into a roughing tap, hard to believe but after that I only needed that and one regular bottoming tap to do the rest. The hardest tapping job I ever did was on a Ruger Mini-14 stainless receiver. I watched some videos and it looks like there is only enough room for about 4 threads over the chamber with 32 TPI. I also found out the maker's correct name is Carl Gustafs instead of Karl Gustav, if it matters.īilsweig, in the past I've used a carbide spotting drill to get below the case, though I don't know how deep it is. Might as well get your money's worth, all counts. Yah just never really know in advance about such things. Certainly not a winner for punching-paper targets, but at least gets "the goods" a lot closer to a useful hit than just grabbing and guessing!Īt 600 yds or so, KD range? Fun is the order of the day.Īt 6 yards in desperation? Simply living to SEE another day or buying crucial time for a BETTER placed follow-up shot can have damned high value. Second, and not so obvious benefit was that for fast on-target, close-in defense, the scope base actually makes for a sort of overly large "peep sight". Is it advisable to fit a base that puts the scope high enough that there is no need to remove the rear sight? (This would also have the effect of leaving the rifle close to stock for others later) and It need not be all that much "higher", it can be done, and I'd call it well worth looking into.Ĭase in point, my very different Savage 99DL and the B&L mount for its Balvar 8 Scope.įirst one is that it left fully-functional original sights so that if the scope is de-mounted, damaged, or simply not the best tool for the task at hand, one just moves the head a tad and uses the original sights. Can the rear sight be removed without weakening the action, mechanically perhaps?ġ. Is it advisable to fit a base that puts the scope high enough that there is no need to remove the rear sight? (This would also have the effect of leaving the rifle close to stock for others later) and Ģ. Lead melts at 621.4 F, certainly hot enough to temper hardened steel.ġ. This has me wondering if the locking lug recesses behind the chamber could not easily be accidentally drawn down doing that.Īccording to one forum they originally used almost pure lead solder as opposed by 60/40 lead tin or whatever, and I recall that an alloy of lead and tin actually melts at a lower temperature than either pure lead or tin. As mentioned earlier I have a Karl Gustav 6.5 x 55 Swedish Mauser I'd like to do some 300-800 yard target shooting with, as it is now set up as original military do I need to remove the rear sight? Apparently it is soft soldered on and to get it off people use a propane torch.
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